Aller simple by Piero Macola

Aller simple by Piero Macola

By Piero Macola

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Serves 4. APRICOT SOUFFLÉS An apricot soufflé was one of the first recipes I ever published, over thirty years ago, before Chez Panisse even existed. It appeared on a broadside designed and printed by my friend David Goines, who illustrated it with a little woodcut of a single perfect apricot. David recycled the picture for our New Year’s menu just a few years ago, and here is the recycled recipe, reinvented by Samantha Wood. cup finely chopped dried apricots (recipe follows) � cup plus 1 tablespoon granulated sugar plus more for coating the ramekins and sprinkling on top 1 teaspoon kirsch cup water 1 tablespoon unsalted butter, melted and cooled slightly � cup bitter almond-flavored pastry cream (page302) � cup apricot jam, puréed in a blender or food processor 1 cup egg whites (7 or 8 eggs, depending on their size), room temperature 1 tablespoon cornstarch 1 pinch salt � teaspoon cream of tartar Powdered sugar for dusting Put the chopped apricots in a small saucepan with 1 tablespoon sugar, the kirsch, and water.

Serve immediately, on individual plates lined with napkins or doilies (to keep the ramekins from sliding around). Serves 8. Variation: Use pulverized amaretti cookies instead of sugar for coating the insides of the ramekins and for sprinkling on top before baking. DRIED APRICOTS There should be a term that describes organic fruit dried on a small scale at home—“fresh-dried,” perhaps—because such fruit has distinctive qualities: it is unsulfured, bright-tasting, and colorful. We found that unsliced apricot halves turn brown in the time it takes them to dry, and now we get the best results when we cut the fruit in half, remove the pits (saving them for noyaux), and slice the apricots before drying.

Bake about 45 minutes in all, until the apples are soft, their edges have browned a bit, and the crust has caramelized to a dark golden brown. Remove the galette from the oven and carefully slide it off the parchment directly onto a cooling rack. Let cool at least 15 minutes before glazing and slicing. Make the glaze while the tart is baking: Put the reserved apple peels and cores and the remaining ½ cup sugar in a saucepan, pour in just enough water to cover, and simmer for about 25 minutes. Strain the syrup and brush it gently over the finished tart before serving.

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